Bouillabaisse, boutiquery and bombast
A version of this article was published in the Irish Times April 13, 2013, just prior to Marseille becoming the EU City of Culture for 2016
Le Panier district — the oldest part of a very old city. Cafes and bars here hint at long nights, brandy sipping, and possibly the exchange of Voltaire quotes and epigrams.
MARSEILLE has a notable history of contrariness. The locals have long enjoyed taking umbrage at various yokes. Julius Caesar, Louis XIV, Napoleon Bonaparte, the Vatican, the Visigoths – the citizens hereabouts put manners on ’em all.
Hitler abhorred Marseille— surely a recommendation in itself. Never particularly into multiculturalism, the Führer despised the cosmopolitan élan of the city. So he had the old quarter blown up.
La Corniche, Marseille. The city combines Gallic cool with a tumultuous history (Image: Joel Talv)
Despite this long, and at times distinguished back story, today you might think of Marseille in terms of The French Connection, The Count of Monte Cristo, or the local dish bouillabaisse.
Rugby fans might also remember that the French national anthem has something to do with the city. But given its exotic reputation, few will be surprised to hear that Marseille was selected as the EU designated City of Culture not long ago.
Being at the fulcrum of French affairs is nothing new for Marseille. This is the country’s oldest city, and arguably its most exciting. Founded by the Greeks some 2,600 years ago, there's scarcely been a quiet moment since.Combining Mediterranean panache and North African exuberance, Marseille is a place where you can experience, see, eat, drink, buy, visit, kiss, stroke or fondle anything you want, any time of the day or night.
Temptation may never be far away, but to be fair, this availability of diversion has left the city with a mixed reputation.
Marseille’s flair for entertainment of all sorts is counter-balanced by a well-developed gift for crime — this has long been a centre of excellence for gangsters and general ne’er-do-wells who could hold their own in the nastiest of company.
The travel writer Basil Woon wrote From Deauville to Monte Carlo: A Guide to the Gay World of France in 1929. In it he warned respectable readers that they should on no account visit France’s second city. “Thieves, cut-throats and other undesirables throng the narrow alleys and sisters of scarlet sit in the doorways of their places of business, catching you by the sleeve as you pass by. The dregs of the world are here unsifted … Marseille is the world’s wickedest port.”
* Gay meant something different back then, and indeed just like that word Marseille has undergone something of a makeover; to put it another way, it has been trying to go straight, but not in a gay sense. Clear, n'est ce pas?
Mediaeval Marseille
The city’s old mediaeval quarter, Le Panier — despite the Nazis’ best efforts — remains intact. This is the dark underbelly of the city, where menace and beauty seamlessly blend. But the area has steadily become less hard-edged. Regeneration has meant that the winding streets are now home to quirky boutiques and bistros. Still, watch your wallet; others in all likelihood will be watching it too.
A brief history
Marseille was one of the major trading ports of the ancient world.
Originally called Massalia, the city was shaped by the great mincing machine of Mediterranean history. Greek fishermen founded it, Carthaginians and Romans both saw its potential as a trading port, Crusaders realised it was a handy pit stop — all, and many more, left their imprimatur.
Hence the wealth of architecture, style, culture, gastronomy and music available.
Fast forward, and you'll not be surprised to hear that Marseille joined enthusiastically in the French Revolution. Volunteers marching on Paris singing The War Song of the Rhine Army. So pleasing did this prove, it was renamed La Marseillaise and promptly became the French national anthem. Even by the standards of Europe's national jingles it’s a tad bloodthirsty.
“Can you hear in the fields the howling of these fearsome soldiers?Coming into our midst to cut the throats of our sons and consorts.”
Catchy enough, let me tell you, after a glass or two of the local hooch, pastis. (Not only is this very hoochy — pastis comes in at around 45 per cent alcohol — it has added zest from aniseed and spices.)
On the Quai des Belges, the fishing boats disgorge their catches, as they have done for centuries. Fishwives holler out their wares — the mackerel, hake and bream will soon to be grilled, fried, braised, baked and transformed into one of many legendary Marseille dishes.
The old harbour with new boats. Fisherman ply their trade daily in amongst the pleasure craft
Bouillabaisse (literally ‘boil right down’), the region’s celebrated fish stew, was more than likely invented as a way to use up bony fish unfit for the market. Opinions vary as to the classic recipe, but any self-respecting bouillabaisse should include at least three kinds of fresh fish cooked in a broth of onions, other types of seafood — ranging from sea urchin to spider crab — tomatoes, saffron and various herbs and spices. It is traditionally served with rouille (spicy mayonnaise) on thickly sliced bread.
Any of the hundreds of restaurants and cafes that jostle round the old port will be happy to furnish you with a bowl of Marseille’s culinary gift to the world. The perfect accompaniment for bouillabaisse, aside from freshly baked bread, is cassis, the local white wine from the vineyards just to the east of the city.
Given Marseille's solidly muscular character, it’s probably no coincidence that the headquarters of the French Foreign Legion is here. Should that be your reason for reading this guide to the city, the following information may be helpful: convicted felons are discouraged from joining the service. However a legionnaire can enter the service under an assumed name, yes, a nomme de guerre, and after four years of service can change his name at will. If that’s you, remember you’ll also receive French citizenship. The current headquarters are in Aubagne. Bonne chance, mon petit fromage.
The 6th Battalion the Foreign Legion. You join up in Marseille, and the good news is that you don't need to give your real name. Serve four years and you get French citizenship; if you haven't served three years but get injured while on active service, you become "French through spillled blood". Just so you know.
Coincidentally, Aubagne is the birthplace of Marcel Pagnol, the writer of Jean de Florette, a sort of French version of The Field.
Of celebrated craftiness and jaw-dropping cheekiness, the Marseillaise are an attractive bunch – generous and gregarious — although at times lugubrious. No wonder local boy Pagnol is revered here. Occupying a position just a little sunnier than Samuel Beckett, and also marginally to the south of August Strindberg, here’s what he had to say about life:
“The reason people find it so hard to be happy is that they always see the past better than it was, the present worse than it is, and the future less resolved than it will be." In other words, “C’est la vie — mais c’est la morte aussi".
Hasn’t French writing got a certain I-don’t-know-what about it?
Key locations
Notre-Dame de la Garde — the main place in Marseille to have your (Catholic) sins washed away
Notre-Dame de la Garde
Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, notredamedelagarde.com
The essential viewpoint of Marseille, the church of Notre-Dame de la Garde is an enormous Romano-Byzantine basilica in the hills to the south of the Vieux Port.
Hospice de la Vielle Charité
Hospice de la Vielle Charité
2 Rue de la Charité
This old hospital for beggars in Le Panier now houses two ace museums dedicated to archeology and anthropology.
At the heart of the enormous courtyard stands a chapel, a glittering architectural gem.
La Canebière
One of the most famous streets in maritime history, La Canebière lies at the heart of the city. The name derives from the word for hemp, or marijuana, grown here and spun into rope in the Middle Ages. A likely tale.
To the north is the ramshackle Quartier Belsunce– an exuberant, mainly North African area: al fresco snacks are sold on the street alongside jewellery, leather goods, clothes, spices and cloth from across the Mediterranean.
The Vieux Port
Old Marseille is best seen in the environs of Vieux Port, the Old Port. For the best view, head for the Palais du Pharo, originally built as a château for Napoleon III and Eugenie at the edge of the bay.
Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse
Designed in the 1940s, Le Corbusier's Marseille creations were designed to make the livin' easy for crowded metropolises
Château d’If
Château d'If, the island prison which housed the Count of Monte Cristo, is France’s Alcatraz. The novel’s hero, Edmond Dantès described his surroundings as “. . . blacker than the sea, blacker than the sky. . . . whose projecting crags seemed like arms extended to seize their prey.” Great numbers of non-fictional prisoners were also banged up here; tours embark from Quai de la Fraternité.
The Calanques
The jagged limestone coves and crystal clear waters of the Calanques national park between Marseilles and Cassis, are the ideal day trip. Boats leave the Vieux-Port, and Cassis,.
Where to eat
Restaurant Miramar
12 Quai du Port, 00-33-491-914109
www.lemiramar.fr
One of Marseille’s top tables, situated on the sea front. Their signature bouillabaisse is served in classic fashion and with much theatre: a saffron-tinted soup followed by the fish poached in the soup. Main courses around €45, although fish-of-the-day can be had for €29
La Virgule
27 Rue de la Loge, 00-33-491-909111
www.lavirgule.marseille.free.fr
Michelin-starred, and more seafood wizardry with the likes of shrimp risotto and calamars sautés. Good value — midweek you can get a plat du jour for €13.50, or three courses for €36. For that you also get a terrific view of Nôtre Dame de la Garde and the Old Port thrown in.
Des Mets de Provence
18 Quai Rive Neuve, 00-33-491-333538.
Mediterranean and Provençal cuisine. Huge portions of meltingly good seafood and hearty rural fare such as their oven-roasted pigeon. Allow around €45 per person for starter and main course. Our waiter assured us that the scallops were ‘hand-gathered’ and the sole ‘line-caught’.
Restaurant Chez Michel à Marseille
6 Rue des Catalans, 00-33-491-523063
A 15-minute walk along the coast road, but worth the effort. Not cheap, but the bouillabaisse is reckoned to be one of the best in town.
Chez Madie
138 Quai du Port, 00-33-4-91-904087
Another top seafood establishment, with great views over the port. You have to book your bouillabaisse in advance, and it’ll run you some €45.
Chez Michel
6 Rue des Catalans, 13007 Marseille, +33 4 91 52 30 63
Zinedine Zidane’s favourite haunt. The waiters are dressed as sailors, but the chefs, rest assured, are dressed as chefs, and know their onions. Probably have a degree in les oignions.
La Boite-à-Sardine
2 Boulevard de la Libération,
Réservation au 04 91 50 95 95
This quirky fishmonger-restaurant with walls covered in gleaming sardine tins and various other maritime nick-nacks dangling from the ceiling.
Where to stay
Le Pension Edelweiss
6 Rue Lafayette, 00-33-951-233511
The somewhat unlikely sounding Pension Edelwiess — not in the Austrian Tyrol but in Marseille city centre, is a friendly, characterful B&B.
Doubles €85, breakfast included.
Mama Shelter
64 Rue de la Loubière, 00-33-484-35200
Offbeat décor, nouvelle cuisine restaurant attached, pingpong tables and scooters available. Avant garde boutiquery might be the correct description.
Doubles from €79
Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port
36, Boulevard Charles Livon
Five star hotel perched at the entry to the Vieux Port, with five star views and luxury both guaranteed.
Doubles from €235
Hotel Le Corbusier
280, Boulevard Michelet, 00-33-491-167800.
On the seventh floor of Le Corbusier’s Unité d'Habitation, this is your chance to stay in a futuristic, vertical village — the 20th century utopian vision of the Swiss architect.
Doubles from €75
Les Lofts du Vieux Port
13 Rue Plan Fourmiguier, 13007 Marseille, +33 6 65 59 29 63
Informal 3 star hotel. The rooms have great views, most with balconies; the service is efficient and friendly.
Doubles from €93
Alex Hotel
13-15 Place des Marseillaises, 13001 Marseille, +33 4 13 24 13 24
This 21-room boutique hotel, with its pretty inner courtyard, is an oasis of clam near Saint Charles station, the Eurostar’s terminus.
Rooms blend minimalist interior design with a classic Marseille exterior.
Doubles from €120