Northerly latitude

A version of this article appeared in Cara, the Aer Lingus inflight magazine, in June 2016.

NOTE: the 'Where to go" section did not appear in Cara, but was published, along with the rest of the feature, in Primo Life (Australia)

IN A notably grave breach of social etiquette way back in 1573, the Earl of Essex invited 300 members of the ruling O'Neill clan to a feast in Belfast Castle. Then, just as the nibbles were being cleared away, he had them all killed.

This was, as you might imagine, no blueprint for good community relations. But the unfortunate incident was a foretaste of things to come — one thinks particularly of the Game of Thrones, which specialises in carnage on an industrial scale. The Throne itself — indeed the very headquarters of the most successful TV series ever made — sits in the Paint Hall studios in Belfast. The scary HBO production is extensively filmed in a corner of the former Harland and Wolff shipyards, as well as at locations round Northern Ireland — G-of-T tours depart from outside the Belfast Visitor Centre, if you think you’re hard enough.

When it comes to drama, Belfast has plenty. Maybe it’s the setting — few cities have a more extravagant backdrop. The huge volcanic outcrop of Cave Hill rises in such outré  fashion that Jonathan Swift passing by said, hang on a sec. . . that looks a bit like a sleeping giant.  He doubtless began scribbling in his notebook, under the heading ‘Travels — Belfast; idea?’. Probably put one of those squiggly lines underneath it.

Great stories, heroic and tumultuous, lurk round every corner. The Industrial Revolution turned the city into a mighty manufacturing base — shirts, ciggies, napkins and of course, ocean liners.

An account of the goings-on of the world’s most famous ship since Noah’s Ark is explored from every angle in the eye-catching building that is Titanic Belfast.

Hitting the iceberg required a rigorous application of Sod’s Law — and indeed everything that might have gone wrong with this floating Downton Abbey proceeded to do so. To find out more, take a Wee Tram tour of the entire Titanic Quarter. Sites include the SS Nomadic, which served as a tender. The HMS Caroline, a World War I cruiser, is moored alongside. The only survivor from the Battle of Jutland, the restored Caroline is the definitive display of matters nautical.

Just south of the Titanic Quarter beside the elegant Waterfront Hall (coffee, cake, concerts), Holohan’s provides an excellent vantage point for scoping the Lagan. Sit and watch as pillars of mist drift silently across east Belfast; as they catch the great cranes of the shipyards, it’s easy to imagine the Titanic slipping anchor, and sailing out into the Irish Sea. (1 Lanyon Place, +44 28 9023 5973, www.holohansatthebarge.co.uk)

This rugged old seaport, with a history for which the kindest word would be 'eventful’, has one undisputed glory. Sandwiched between its time-darkened buildings stand some of the world’s finest pubs, not least the singular hostelry that is the Crown Liquor Saloon (46 Great Victoria Street, Belfast, +44 028 9024 3187, www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk). Many of the luxury fixtures and fittings destined for the Titanic ended up here  — appropriated by shipbuilders discharging their bar bills in novel fashion. But you don’t have to be a riveter or plate-welder to appreciate that a well-poured pint in this Victorian gem is the perfect way to start the day. Sorry, evening.

The past crops up everywhere in Belfast, with many experts in the field available. So when the barman at Whites tells you their establishment received its first liquor licence in 1630, “the year before work on the Taj Mahal began”, you’ll probably say, yeah, that sounds about right. (Whites, Winecellar Entry, + 44 28 9031 2582).

Nearby the Harp (35 Hill Street, +44 28 9032 9923, www.harpbarbelfast.com) presents live music nightly. Van Morrison, not a man much given to popping in, pops in from time to time to play an impromptu gig.

The cultural heartland of the city is the Cathedral Quarter, Belfast’s old warehouse district surrounding the impressive St. Anne's Cathedral. The cobbled streets are today lined with all manner of frippery from clubs to cafes, and notably the Metropolitan Arts Centre (10 Exchange Street West, +44 28 9023 5053, www.themaclive.com). This stunning asymmetrical tower of brick and volcanic stone houses art installations, performance spaces, experimental works and endless goings-on. All sorts.

Oh Yeah (+44 28 9031 0845, 15-21 Gordon Street, www.ohyeahbelfast.com), founded by, among others, Snow Patrol’s Gary Lightbody, is the place for local bands.

St George’s Market (Oxford Street / May Street, 028 9032 0202) is where Belfast folk have been ‘getting their messages’ (ie shopping) since 1896. The old covered Victorian weekend market features local producers and traders. Friday is (mostly) food, Sunday arts and crafts. Saturday is bling day, with the stalls groaning with everything you might conceivably want, and to be fair, much you don’t. If you’ve ever fancied buying a Czech Army greatcoat (large size only) while supping a pint of Guinness, make a beeline here.

The novelist Owen Hannay declared in his autobiography, "I was born in Belfast and brought up to believe that, like St. Paul, I am a citizen of no mean city." Dark, dramatic, rollicking Belfast remains today, no mean city. This extraordinary place provides loads of cultural brio, oodles of eating and drinking opportunities, and live entertainment by the barrowload.

It will undoubtedly seduce you too.

Where to visit

The Linen Hall Library

The smell of this of this venerable institution hits you as soon as you mount the stairs — a heady aroma of leather, books, newsprint and wooden floors.

Established in 1788 'to improve the mind and excite a spirit of general inquiry', the Linen Hall is one of the most absorbing libraries in these islands. It houses a valuable resource on the 1798 Rebellion — an early librarian, United Irishman Thomas Russell, was executed as a rebel in 1803, possibly one of the more notable things ever to happen to a librarian.

The Irish and local-studies collection includes a copy of everything written about Northern Ireland politics since 1966 — 250,000 items in all, the definitive archive of the recent Troubles.

Needless to say there are also copies of the oldest English language newspaper – and one of the oldest in the world still published – the Belfast Newsletter, which rolled off the press in 1737.

Some of the more offbeat exhibits on show include the IRA's A-Z handbook, chocolate bars commemorating loyalist violence, and a lolly shaped like a foot with the advice to “kick the Pope”. There’s enough here to offend everyone, but the library is strictly non-partisan – everyone is offended equally.

The Linen Hall Library, 17 Donegall Square North, Belfast, BT1 5GB, +44 28 9032 1707, www.linenhall.com

The Ulster Museum

The Ulster Museum in Botanic Gardens is one of the best half dozen places in the world to get to grips with Irish history, from Early Erin onwards.

The Girona Treasure, gathered from the Spanish Armada that foundered off the northerly seaboard of Ireland, is a graphic and glittering slice of history, while the art gallery houses European treasures both traditional and contemporary.

You’ll also get the lowdown on linen, rope and glass manufacturing, industrial machines and Irish painting, and of course a definitive study of the shipyards that produced the RMS Titanic.

The Murals

The Falls Road, the main thoroughfare through west Belfast, is name is synonymous with the Catholic and republican communities in the city.

The predominantly Protestant neighbouring area of Shankill Road is separated from the Falls by the “peace line” — huge ramparts, some as high as 25ft, made from concrete and wrought iron. These keep the factions apart.

Both the the nationalist and loyalist areas are bedecked with huge murals, on gable ends and on the "peace walls".

Republican heroes, loyalist figures, international revolutionary figures, legendary Irish icons and even Princess Diana make appearances. Any walk up the Falls Road or into neighbouring side streets will reveal more murals, covering walls and gable ends. Portraits of Bobby Sands stand beside the 26+6=1 slogans (an allusion to the counties in both parts of Ireland), as well as revered historical figures such as James Connolly “The man who live for socialism but died for Ireland”, Jim Larkin (trades unionist leader) and Sir Roger Casement, the British civil servant who became an Irish rebel.

Katie Melua, who went to school on the Falls Road, mentions the murals on the album Call Off the Search

Belfast (Penguins and Cats)

Walked on Broadway,

Going up the Falls,

With the old man I used to know,

The paintings on the walls of release,

Are colourful but they are no Matisse,

And I'm divided between penguins and cats,

But it's not about what animal you've got,

It's about being able to fly,

It's about dying nine times.

Where to stay

FUNKY

Malmaisons have a philosophy of turning formerly unsuitable premises (brothels, prisons) into offbeat, luxury boutique hotels. The Belfast Malmaison is a former seed warehouse, refurbished to within an inch of its life. The soft-focus boudoirs with their suave boutique décor almost demand you get up to no good.

Rooms from around £95

The Malmaison, 34-38 Victoria Street, +44 28 96001405, www.malmaison.com

OPPULENT

The Merchant Hotel, a grand 19th-century Grade I listed building, has been transformed into a lavish and classically styled hotel that provides terrific shelter for the night. Five star elegance and luxury, with rooms as big as meadows — the place oozes city chic. This is just about the top place to lay your head in town. Rooms from £200

The Merchant Hotel, +44 28 9023 4888,16 Skipper St, www.themerchanthotel.com

TOP-DRAWER DIGS

The Fitzwilliam, a stylish bolt-hole in the city centre, has rooms that are luxurious and foxy. Breakfasts are legendary, with everything available. You could have cornflakes wrapped in salmon should the fancy take you.

Rooms from £110

The Fitzwilliam, +44 9044 2080, Great Victoria Street, www.fitzwilliamhotelbelfast.com

SWISH ACCOMMODATION

The Culloden, elegantly situated overlooking Belfast Lough, is a former bishop's palace, now with a conservatory extension housing the Elysian Spa.

Gym, swimming pool, jacuzzi and steam room are set in twelve acres of undulating parkland. The spa offers more than just beauty treatments - reiki, reflexology, ear candling are all available, and the toe therapy is said to be the best toe therapy you'll come across in a long day's march.

If you’re staying overnight serious comfort is on offer – the beds are so big you might get lost in them; the bathrooms are covered from floor to ceiling in grey marble.

Rooms from £180

Culloden Estate and Spa, Bangor Road, Holywood, BT18 0EX, +44 28 9042 1066, www.hastingshotel.com

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Shopping

CHOCCIES

Auntie Sandra’s Candy Factory is an utterly unique confectionery shop where the sweets, candy, chocolate and fudge are made by hand to traditional recipes, some dating back more than a century. The sort of place you should push a note out of the window saying "...I'm locked inside a chocolate factory...DON'T SEND HELP."

60 Castlereagh Road, +44 9073 2868, www.auntsandras.com

EDGY STUFF

Studio Souk is stuffed with everything from major art works to cheeky little knick-knacks. Linzi Rooney’s creative hub in the city centre features recycled treasures, artisan crafts, local fashion designs, breezy artwork and funky furniture Local artists, jewellers and artisans, painters and cabinet-makers, designers and dealers, exhibit their wares here. Beautiful paintings from Órlaith Cullinane, and ceramics from Siobhan Steele. Other names include Owly Boutique, Ballyshore Pebble Art, Armstrong Twisted Fish, Neary Nogs. Yes, it sounds vaguely like an indie band gig — but they produce some of the most imaginative swag you’ll find in these islands.

27 Castle Lane, www.studiosouk.com

CLASSY GEAR

At Maven, sisters Catherine and Patricia sell both emerging and established brands. Further, they are the stockists for Derek Wilson’s work. The Belfast potter, sculptor and ceramicist’s work is at the very cutting edge of contemporary design.  Maven also stock Ekotree Irish hot water bottles, Mourne Textiles — handloom-woven gear from a family-run, outfit at the foothills of the Mountains, and Donna Bates Design lighting and furniture from the Co. Down company. Plus many more local and international wares. (4a Maryville Avenue, + 44 28 9066 5176, www.wearemaven.co.uk

Where to eat 

LOCAL

Hadski’s, chef Niall McKenna’s creation in the Cathedral Quarter, features a menu that runs from refined rustic to elegantly exotic. Try Ulster's culinary gift to the world, champ — mashed potatoes, scallions, butter — accompanied by Clonakilty black and white pudding. This should qualify as a World Heritage Dish, were such an award available. Wash it down with a Belfast Blonde or a Barney’s Brew— both craft creations from the estimable Hilden Brewing Company in Lisburn.

Hadski's, 33 Donegall Street, +44 28 9032 9923, www.hadskis.co.uk

BISTRO

The Muddler’s Club, renowned chef Gareth McCaughey’s place in the historic back streets of Cathedral Quarter, is a buzzy bistro serving the likes of white onion soup with smoked haddock and curry oil, or beetroot, gorgonzola and hazelnut salad.

The kitchen area is in full view of the diners, with the staff calm and relaxed — it seems you don’t have to shout and swear, and “Oui chef, non chef, and please don’t hit me with that leg of mutton, chef”, in order to produce cutting edge, mouth-watering cuisine.

The Muddler's Club, 1 Warehouse Lane, +44 28 9031 3199, www.themuddlersclubbelfast.com

UPMARKET

In a city that now boasts a dazzling gastronomic map, top table is OX, jointly owned by Alain Kerloc'h and Stephen Toman. Their combined endeavours have turned an old dockside building into a Michelin-starred restaurant, stripped down for action. If you (wisely) go for the seasonal tasting menu, you’ll find the likes of asparagus and smoked potato alongside meltingly-good Mourne mountain lamb. Dishes arecreatively prepared and offer something sweet, savoury, earthy, crunchy, soft, aromatic, spicy. Sometimes all within the same dish. And as for the wine list — loads of esoteric beauties. You'll be led into temptation.

OX 1 Oxford St, +44 28 9031 4121, www.oxbelfast.com

Thanks to Visit Belfast, Belfast Visitor Centre, 9 Donegall Square North, +44 28 9024 6609 www.visitbelfast.com