Pleasure Island
A version of this feature appeared in the Mail on Sunday on March 18, 2017
THE NEIGHBOURS were kicking up an awful racket. We were enjoying a cocktail on the patio of the Olivestone House on a balmy Greek evening, just on the edge of the village of Ágios Markos.
In the background the cacophony continued: crickets, cicadas, an unidentifiable bird — a perfect accompaniment to the warmth of an Aegean night.
During the day the soundscape varied. This time it was bees buzzing heavily in the bird-of-paradise bushes, that most exotic of plants.
But it’s not all sensory treats hereabouts. The arrival of Homer’s Ulysses in Corfu was delayed by the fury of Poseidon stirring up a great tempest. It seemed Poseidon was tetchy enough about our arrival too; a Hitchcock-grade storm raged throughout the first night.
To be fair, the guide books do say that Corfu “has abundant rainfall”, hence the baroque extravagance of vegetation. The Olivestone garden showed much evidence of that — walnut, avocado, oranges, almonds, bananas, and of course olives, all grew in profusion.
Olivestone itself is a 300-year-old farmhouse, refurbished and modernised to within an inch of its life. Aside from swimming pool it has all digital devilry: wifi, satellite television, sound system worthy of a recording studio.
Outside the Panorama Snack Bar — a centre of excellence for the local hooch
One of the few things that might prize you away from the villa or its swimming pool is the Panorama Snack Bar, just up the road. Or to be more exact, up a stone path that meanders onto the main street of Ágios Markos. This is a sedate old village — the only thing speeding through here are parties of swallows. It has a stripped down list of amenities: restaurant, a vineyard and two mediaeval churches. Down the road is a food store. So — pub, icons, wine, and a place to get custard-filled croissants for breakfast. Once you’ve got the essentials sorted out, you don’t need much else.
The Panorama, as befits its name, has an arresting view across the bay — sit by the window and it’s the perfect backdrop for an evening meal. Despite the 'Snack Bar' suffix, the clientele is overwhelmingly local.
The menu is elegant in its simplicity: baronial portions of souvlaki or moussaka. All dishes are served with chips, olives and a huge salad; dessert is either water melon or the local hooch, Metaxa brandy. You can drink pretty good Greek wine too, or gag on retsina.
We dined there three nights out of the seven. I slinked off there at lunchtime five out of seven. Airily pointed at the woodland. Exploring, I said. Funnily enough that retsina grows on you.
Freshly baked bougatsas available here. If you're not familiar with this custardy delicacy, scroll down...
Eventually it was time to recce the island’s capital. Dodging potholes and goats we took the coast road to town, passing Corfu’s north-easterly beaches. You can take your pick: secluded rocky coves or sandy strands with all amenities, such as nearby Barbati beach.
You can take a motor boat to Albania a mile or so away. Even better, sit in a taverna and raise your glass to the people in Albania.
Multi-tasking in Corfu town — shopping, and making sure spiritual things are in order
Corfu town is at a strategic point on the coastline. Romans, Goths, Byzantines, Normans, the British have all fetched up here. The Venetians eventually got their marching orders at the end of the 18th century, but it’s their influence that remains in the city — a tangle of narrow alleyways, shuttered façades, wide squares, two castles, sufficient churches to satisfy the most ardent sinner, ditto tavernas. This is Venice without the canals.
Sight-seeing duties done, we’re back in the village of Ágios Markos and heading for the Panorama Bar. The olive groves rise steeply up the mountains, and paths thread through woods — good walking, if you want it. The local routes join the Corfu Trail at the village of Spartilas a mile away. The 8-day trail passes through mountain villages where you’re assured of a traditional, warm Ionian welcome. Here, as in the Panorama Bar, life goes on pretty much as it always did. They probably haven’t even heard that the Venetians have left.
A view of old Corfu town's nooks. A few crannies can also be spotted
Corfu town key sites
The Church of St Jason and St Sosipater
Illustrious visitors to Corfu have included Cato, Cicero, Julius Caesar, Mark Antony, Nero and the Emperor Titus. Historical superstars each one.
But alas, visiting has not always gone down well. Saint Jason and Saint Sosipatros arrived in the 1st century AD to convert the place to Christianity. The Corfiots were having none of it and — their traditional welcoming nature momentarily deserting them — promptly threw the two missionaries into a vat of boiling water.
Today the church of St Jason and St Sosipater is reputedly the oldest on the island and is one of the few places where you can use the word ‘iconic’ without sounding clichéd. The place is, after all, coming down with beautiful religious pix.
The New Fortress
Corfu town has a prevailing tone of elegance, even though it boasts two substantial castles, neither of which are kidding. The muscular fortifications of the New Fortress (not so new as it happens) dominate the northeastern part of the city. This is a Venetian building, with the winged Lion of St Mark — the symbol of Venice — emblazoned at regular intervals on walls and turrets. If you only visit one castle a year, this has to be on your short list.
The Spianda
The Spianda, the centre of social life in Corfu, is surrounded by some of the town’s most notable landmarks: the Venetian-Roman style City Hall, the castles, the Palace of Sts. Michael and George. For an afternoon of voluptuous languor, sit at one of the cafes on the Liston, an arched 18th century colonnade.
Where to stay
THAT's a bougatsa
Olivestone House, Ágios Markos
Set in two acres of grounds, the villa sleeps six.
CV Villas, 21 Dorset Square, London, NW1 6QE
00 44 207 563 7901
www.greek.islands@cvvillas.com
Cost: sliding scale for seven nights from £1444
The Merchant’s House, Old Perithia
A beautiful old converted house in, as the name of the town implies, Corfu’s oldest village. The B&B is helpfully within staggering distance of half a dozen tavernas.
Old Perithia, 49081 Corfu
00 30 26630 98444
Double rooms including breakfast from €140
Siorra Vittoria
This boutique hotel with nine rooms is located in the heart of Corfu old town. The mansion, with beautiful gardens attached, dates back to the 1823.
Double rooms from £85
36, St. Padova Str.
Corfu Town
Phone: 00 30 26610 3630
Where to eat
O Ninos, Corfu Town
Throughout Corfu there are myriad dining opportunities in tavernas, cafe and bars. O Ninos, tucked away on an alleyway off Theotoki Street on the seafront of Corfu Town, is frequented by locals. There’s a pleasing, buzzy scrum at the bar, and the tables are packed tightly together. The pastisada beef, a Corfiot pasta dish, is particularly good, and you won’t go far wrong with the moussaka either.
00 30 26610 46175
Fagopoteion, Ágios Stéfanos Sinión
In the north east corner of the island, this character-packed taverna specialises in traditional recipes, fresh wild fish caught around the Diapóndia islets and rabbit stew from the mountains. Locations don’t get much more romantic than this. However, if romance isn’t on your agenda, try the starter three-cheese saganáki, basically fried cheese and then some. It will more than compensate.
Address: mid-waterfront, Ágios Stéfanos Sinión
00 30 26630 82020
Barbati Beach — some ten minutes' drive from Olivestone House. That's part of Albania in the distance
Boukari Beach Sea Taverna
I’d probably visit this taverna regularly even were it located in a disused nuclear bunker on the outskirts of Scunthorpe. As it is, its situation in a small beach village south of Corfu town makes it unmissable. The tender kalamári, octopus bourdéto and steamed mussels are just about the best you’ll get anywhere.
Boukari Beach, Kouspades
0030 2662 051791