Roll out the barrels

A version of this article appeared in The Irish Times and The Irish Post. It has been updated.

Some seventy five percent of wine bought in Ireland is consumed within four hours of it leaving the shop.

After a somewhat overly-long lunch at La Gentilhommière restaurant in Nuits Saint Georges, I nodded knowingly. I gazed blearily around at some of the most famous vineyards in the world, then took another generous sip of my excellent 1986 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Chardonnay. I nodded again.

It would explain a lot.

Here in Burgundy, in something of a contrast to our own imbibing habits, wine is barely considered drinkable until it’s been in the cellar for a decade or two. There seems to be no tradition of ripping bottles from a supermarket bag and glugging it down as you walk along the street.

I was in Burgundy to explore one of the great wine areas of the world. Even if you’ve never wondered why Philip the Bold should have banned the gamay grape in the 14th century (subsequently backing the pinot noir to the hilt), the region will have a seductive pull.

In former times this corner of France was one of the main centres of Christendom, with great abbeys at Cluny, Citeaux and Fontenay. Burgundy was a hugely influential European power. In its heyday, the Dukes of Burgundy — a bunch of dangerous, scheming aristocrats — held sway from the southern reaches of France to the north of Holland. But soon a sweep of decadence settled on this land and it opted for the much less stressful role of being home to some of the most famous vineyards on the planet.

Running from Auxerre in the north to Mâcon in the south, Burgundy lays claim to some of the most beguiling scenery in La Belle France. Vineyards stretch in every direction over the lush green hills of the Vallée de l’Ouche. Pinot noir as far as the eye can see. This is the area that produces, notably, Chablis, Chardonnay and Beaujolais. Southeast of the town of Chablis is the soporifically beautiful Côte d'Or, where Burgundy's most famous and most expensive wines originate. Here, in the heartland of the region, some 3,000 independent winemakers are hard at work. Their wines taste differently depending on the terroir: the subtle variation in soil, slope and climatic exposure.

Home to the world's finest and most expensive pinot noir and chardonnay vines, one property always comes up when Burgundy is discussed: the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which makes the most rarefied pinot noir in the world. Prices are reassuringly high — a case of three 75cl bottles of 2006 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru will set you back just £52,500.

The best way to sample the wine (and restaurants) of Burgundy is to head along the Route de Grand Crus. It snakes south from Marsannay down to Beaune and beyond to Chassagne-Montrachet, passing through monumentally beautiful villages with famous wine names such as Chalon-sur-Saône, Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-St-Georges.

Dijon, some thirty kilometres north of Beaune, is the culinary capital. Its most famous export, the mustard, originated here in 1856. A local chap name of Jean Naigeon substituted verjuice, the acidic "green" juice of not-quite-ripe grapes, for vinegar in the traditional mustard recipe.

Even if you’re not a mustard fan, there’s a lot here. The Duchy of Burgundy was key in the transformation of mediaeval times towards early modern Europe. The city’s many museums will give you the complete lowdown. The epicentre of power, the Palace of the Dukes and Estates of Burgundy, is appropriately impressive. In the centre of Dijon, parts of this rambling collection of buildings date back to the 14th century. It flies the EU flag alongside the French tricolour. I found this oddly touching. Not everybody will, I’m sure.

The Route de Grandes Crus eventually arrives in Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy. It remains a walled city, with a good proportion of its fortifications, battlements, ramparts, and moat, intact. Those Dukes of Burgundy evidently — and with good cause — valued security.

The central Old Town is extensive, with the Beffroi (clock tower, full marks for guessing), and the church of Notre Dame dominating the old streets.

Inside Beaune’s ancient walls a formidable array of restaurants are at your service. Locations seldom come more romantic than this. But if romance isn’t on your mind, try the signature dish of the area: pan-fried duck foie gras served with Chablis  jelly. Compensation seldom comes in tastier fashion.

A visit to Hospices de Beaune is recommended, even if you’re not feeling poorly. Considered one of the finest examples of French 15th-century architecture, it has the lot: spectacular roof tiles, breathtaking courtyard, in-your-face painting. The latter is the extraordinary Last Judgement by Rogier van der Weyden. One art expert noted that the panels in the paintings “display a deeply pessimistic view of humanity, with the damned far outnumbering the saved”. Oh well. Never mind.

Aside from being one of the earliest hospitals in the world, the Hospices de Beaune glories in the title of the largest vineyard owner in the region. You’ve still got time to book up for the Hospices wine auction, held on the third Sunday in November. It’s one of the biggest in the world; also one of the rowdiest parties in the area, where you can be sure the damned will inevitably outnumber the saved.

But don’t wave your hands about too much at the auction the next day — the nice lady at the Ryanair desk won’t let you lug even the finest cask of wine on board.

Monsieur Hudelot’s wine lesson

In an attempt to learn why the best red burgundy is (nearly) all about that one grape, I based myself at the vineyards of Monsieur Bernard Hudelot in the village of Villars Fontaine. Happily, in addition to discussing grape varieties, M. Hudelot can provide accommodation in the cultured comfort of his château.

Vineyards stretch in every direction over the lush green hills of the Vallée de l’Ouche. Pinot noir as far as the eye can see. The Duke of Burgundy would have gazed over these same vine-stitched meadows back in the 14th century and he too would have nodded wisely, satisfied that he’d done right by the world of wine.

In his tasting room, Bernard (we’d dropped the ‘Monsieur Hudelot’ quite a few glasses back) opens bottle after bottle of various vintages, outlining the varieties of grape – pinot noir for red, chardonnay for white, plus a little aligote and some gamay.

As we moved through rows of dusty vintages laid down decades ago I spotted a 1972 bottle.

“Ah, around about the year of my birth,” I said. Bernard looked surprised, then recovering, delightedly said, “We must open it then.” And very good it was too. Later I did confess that it was 1972 – plus VAT, import duty, alcohol tax etc.

Afternoon tea at the Château is gougères - choux pastry cheese puffs - with tuna mousse and the favourite cheese of the area, l’epoisse. Life dealt me a fair hand, overall - three aces and Mr. Bun the Baker – so I tucked in, accompanied of course by a 1977 Les Genévrières chardonnay – “It’s a wine that will look after you,” said Bernie.

Even if it does mean a slightly sluggish start to the next day.

Monks and drinks

History permeates the area — renaissance chateaux, ancient villages and mediaeval abbeys startle you into mucky words at every turn.

Monasteries were key in the development of Burgundy. In particular, the Cistercians and Augustinians always had a good trick up their sleeves. Wherever they went, locals were offered a standard deal: turn to Christianity, then you can learn how to make wine. The punters naturally enough said yes. As bargains went, it was a corker — everlasting life, plus the chance to get bladdered.

The Château du Clos de Vougeot has been producing wine since the 12th century, and their enormous, Heath-Robinson-esque oaken wine presses remain in use today. Cistercian monks were among the biggest producers of wine in the Middle Ages – multi-nationals before the word was invented. At Clos de Vougeot, one of the largest single vineyards in Burgundy, the production of their wine is demonstrated. It’s semi-interesting, not exactly gripping - the real joy is to see the glorious monastic buildings, set in equally magnificent surroundings.

Today the Cistercians’ Château looks extraordinarily impressive – to the average punter in mediaeval time it must have appeared miraculous, a beacon of eternity in the midst of a temporary world of wooden huts.

Viniculture education & wine tours

Many vineyards will be happy to teach you all about local wine production. Wine tours are also available. Try Grape Escapes www.grapeescapes.net Operating from both Dijon, the historical capital of Burgundy, and Beaune, the wine capital, the company are more than able to organise a lecture in a brewery, or a soirée in a bodega.

For more formal instruction in viniculture you should present yourself at the Burgundy Wine School in Beaune run by the Bourgogne Wine Board www.burgundy-wines.fr

You’ll get the lowdown on terroirs, grape varieties and vineyards: the great Chablis area, not forgetting the village of Chardonnay, then east to Chatillonais region and south to the great Maconnais lands, bordering the Beaujolais vineyards.

 You’ve probably realised that one of the drawbacks to a holiday in this region is that you’re liable to return home distinctly heavier than when you arrived. To burn off some of those calories you could cycle round Burgundy.

The Hungry Cyclist Lodge www.thehungrycyclist.com offers tailor-made or self-guided cycling tours, as well as offering accommodation.

It’s based in a 17th century watermill, provides superb home-cooking as well as expert knowledge.

A dining vignette

Every village in Burgundy has an establishment, usually several, where you can sample the local produce. In Phillipe Senard’s restaurant in Aloxe Corton every course is accompanied by two different wines.

Our first course, for example, a terrine ou pâté en croute, came with a robust Savigny-les Beaune premier cru Les Verglesses, and a very unassuming Aloxe Corton premier cru Valozières.

Our wait-person, who served elegant vintages throughout the many courses of the meal, pointed out on our place-mats (adorned with a vini-map of the area) on which nearby slopes the wine had come from.

As a dining experiences go, this has to hover near the very top of anyone's culinary list.

Where to stay

Château de Vault de Lugny, 11 rue de Château, 89200 Vault-de-Lugny, www.lugny.fr

Set in a grand 13th-century château and annex on 40-hectare grounds, this castle hotel is 5.7 km from Avallon. The historic rooms are individually furnished in a classic French style.

L'Abbaye de la Bussière, La Bussière-sur-Ouche, Dijon, www.abbayedelabussiere.fr

A stylish retreat, formerly a Cistercian monastery, it comes with stained glass windows, spiral staircases, airy courtyards. Those boys in habits knew how to live.

Hôtel Le Cep, 27, rue Maufoux, Beaune, www.hotel-cep-beaune.com

This collection of 14th to 18th century buildings evokes mediaeval France. But you'll be glad to hear they haven’t stinted on modern luxuries.