This article appeared in the Mail on Sunday, March 18, 2017

www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/article-4326454/The-quiet-Corfu-s-got-lot-shout-about.html

Pleasure island

Mal Rogers stays in a Greek villa

The neighbours were kicking up an awful racket. We were enjoying a cocktail on the patio of the Olivestone House on a balmy Greek evening, just on the edge of the village of Ágios Markos. In the background the cacophony continued: crickets, cicadas, an unidentifiable bird — a perfect accompaniment to the warmth of an Aegean night.

During the day the noise story varied. This time it was bees buzzing heavily in the bird-of-paradise bushes, that most exotic of plants.

But it’s not all sensory treats hereabouts. The arrival of Homer’s Ulysses in Corfu was delayed by the fury of Poseidon stirring up a great tempest. It seemed Poseidon was tetchy enough about our arrival too; a Hitchcock-grade storm raged throughout the first night.

To be fair, the guide books do say that Corfu “has abundant rainfall”, hence the baroque extravagance of vegetation. The Olivestone garden showed much evidence of that — walnut, avocado, oranges, almonds, bananas, and of course olives, all grew in profusion.

Olivestone itself is a 300-year-old farmhouse, refurbished and modernised to within an inch of its life. As well as swimming pool, it has all digital devilry: wifi, satellite television, sound system worthy of a recording studio.

One of the few things that might prize you away from the villa or its swimming pool is the Panorama Snack Bar, just up the road. Or to be more exact, up a stone path that meanders onto the main street of Ágios Markos. This is a sedate old village — the only thing speeding through here are parties of swallows. It has a stripped down list of amenities: restaurant, a vineyard and two mediaeval churches. Down the road is a food store. So — pub, icons, wine, and a place to get custard-filled croissants for breakfast. Once you’ve got the essentials sorted out, you don’t need much else.

The Panorama, as befits its name, has an arresting view across the bay — sit by the window and it’s the perfect backdrop for an evening meal. The choice is pretty much stripped down: baronial portions of souvlaki or moussaka. All dishes are served with chips, olives and a huge salad; dessert is either water melon or the local hooch, Metaxa brandy. You can drink pretty good Greek wine too, or gag on retsina.

We dined there three nights out of the seven. I slinked off there at lunchtime five out of seven. Airily pointed at the woodland. Exploring, I said. Funnily enough that retsina grows on you.

Eventually it was time to recce the island’s capital. Dodging potholes and goats we took the coast road to town, passing Corfu’s north-easterly beaches. You can take your pick: secluded rocky coves or sandy strands with all amenities, such as nearby Barbati beach.

You can even take a motor boat to Albania a mile or so away. Even better, sit in a taverna and wave at the people in Albania. They'll appreciate it.

Corfu town is at a strategic point on the coastline. Romans, Goths, Byzantines, Normans, the British have all fetched up here. The Venetians eventually got their marching orders at the end of the 18th century, but it’s their influence that remains — a tangle of narrow alleyways, shuttered façades, wide squares, two castles, sufficient churches to satisfy the most ardent sinner, ditto tavernas. This is Venice without the canals.

Sight-seeing duties done, we’re back in the village of Ágios Markos and heading for the Panorama Bar. The olive groves rise steeply up the mountains, and paths thread through woods — good walking, if you want it. The local routes join the Corfu Trail at the village of Spartilas a mile away. The 8-day trail passes through mountain villages where you’re assured of a traditional, warm Ionian welcome. Here, as in the Panorama Bar, life goes on pretty much as it always did. They probably haven’t even heard that the Venetians have left.

Where to visit in Corfu town

The Church of St Jason and St Sosipater

Illustrious visitors to Corfu have included Cato, Cicero, Julius Caesar, Pompey, Mark Antony, Nero and the Emperor Titus.  Alas, visiting the island has not always gone down well. Saint Jason and Saint Sosipatros arrived in the 1st century AD to convert the locals to Christianity. The Corfiots were having none of it and — their traditional welcoming nature deserting them for once — promptly threw the two missionaries into a vat of boiling water.

Today the church of St Jason & St Sosipater is reputedly the oldest on the island and is one of the few places where you can use the word ‘iconic’ without sounding clichéd. The place is, after all, coming down with beautiful religious images.

The New Fortress

Corfu town has a prevailing tone of elegance, even though it boasts two substantial castles, neither of which are kidding. The muscular fortifications of the New Fortress (not so new as it happens) dominates the northeastern part of the city. This is a Venetian building, with the winged Lion of St Mark — the symbol of Venice —emblazoned at regular intervals on walls and turrets. If you only visit one castle a year, this has to be on your short list.

The Spianda

The Spianda, the centre of social life in Corfu, is surrounded by some of the town’s most notable landmarks: the Venetian-Roman style City Hall, the castles, the Palace of Sts. Michael and George. For an afternoon of voluptuous languor, sit at one of the cafes on the Liston, an arched 18th century colonnade.

Where to stay

Olivestone House, Ágios Markos

Set in two acres of grounds, the villa sleeps six.

It’s fully equipped with essentials such as wifi, satellite TV, sound system and swimming pool.

CV Villas, 21 Dorset Square, London, NW1 6QE

00 44 207 563 7901

greek.islands@cvvillas.com

cvvillas.com

Cost: sliding scale for seven nights from £1444

The Merchant’s House, Old Perithia

A beautiful old converted house in, as the name of the town implies, Corfu’s oldest village. The B&B is helpfully within staggering distance to half a dozen tavernas.

Old Perithia, 49081 Corfu

00 30 26630 98444

Double rooms including breakfast from €140

www.merchantshousecorfu.com

Siorra Vittoria

This boutique hotel with nine rooms is located in the heart of Corfu old town. The mansion, with beautiful gardens attached, dates back to the 1823.

Double rooms from £85

36, St. Padova Str.

Corfu Town

Phone: 00 30 26610 3630

www.siorravittoria.com

Where to eat

O Ninos, Corfu Town

Corfu has myriad dining opportunities in tavernas, cafe and bars throughout the island. O Ninos, tucked away on an alleyway off Theotoki Street on the seafront of Corfu Town, is frequented by locals. There’s a pleasing, buzzy scrum at the bar, and the tables are packed tightly together. The pastisada beef, a Corfiot pasta dish, is particularly good, and you won’t go far wrong with the moussaka either.

00 30 26610 46175

Fagopoteion, Ágios Stéfanos Sinión

In the north east corner of the island, this character-packed taverna specialises in traditional recipes, fresh wild fish caught around the Diapóndia islets and rabbit stew from the mountains. Locations don’t get much more romantic than this. However, if romance isn’t on your agenda, try the starter three-cheese saganáki, basically fried cheese and then some. It will more than compensate.

Address: mid-waterfront, Ágios Stéfanos Sinión

00 30 26630 82020

Boukari Beach Sea Taverna

I’d probably visit this taverna regularly even were it located in a disused nuclear bunker on the outskirts of Scunthorpe. As it is, its situation in a small beach village south of Corfu town makes it unmissable. The tender kalamári, octopus bourdéto and steamed mussels are just about the best you’ll get anywhere.

Boukari Beach, Kouspades

0030 2662 051791